STEP 1. First choose your specialization.

STEP 2. Check out the energy systems that are needed to climb your route or boulder of choice. Where do you think you’re falling short? If you aren't sure training those labeled with 'High' is a good place to start.

STEP 3. Choose the energy system you want to work on.

STEP 4. Refer to the table starting with your chosen energy system to find your session for your training. 

EXAMPLE:

I’m a max V8 boulderer and I keep being unable to latch the last move on my latest V8 boulder project.

⇨My problem is more than 10 moves
⇨It’s probably my ‘Anaerobic capacity’ because I feel strong on all the moves but I fall off because I am fatigued or pumped.

⇨ My session is 6 in 6 which is 6 boulders in 6 minutes (find on the Crimp’d App) since I’m a V8 boulderer I will try to do boulders that are hard V7 or V6 for this session. I should feel powered out AND pumped after/during this exercise, just like on the last move of my climb where I am falling.

⇨Do this once or more a week!

⇨SEE RESULTS!

Index:

WHAT ARE THESE ENERGY SYSTEMS WE KEEP TALKING ABOUT?

Aerobic Capacity: the ability of your muscles to use O2 more efficiently allowing them to keep performing over a longer period of time 

Recovery: regeneration of the muscles when you reach a rest or climb an easier section 

Buffering Capacity: your body’s ability to fight off pump 

Anaerobic Capacity: the body’s ability to perform harder moves for a longer amount of time (SHORT PE/ LONG PE) 

Finger Strength: is the ability to generate force. Max weight for a hang, static or isometric. Your ability to hold the campus rung. 

Power: Power is strength displayed over time. Speed at which you can achieve max force – how fast you can move from one campus rung to the next and your ability to catch the rung.

Time Under Tension (TOT): the time you are working or climbing. Your session minus your rest time.